During my visit to El Salvador, my amigo Miguel introduced me to Luis, a former FMLN revolutionary. Luis belongs to the small community of La Mora, located on the edge of Guazapa Volcano just outside of Suchitoto, a region that was once one of the world’s most dangerous places when it was filled with FMLN guerrillas in revolt. Rural La Mora is currently populated by a mere 74 families who, like Luis, are former guerrillas who have integrated back into society since the 1992 peace agreement. Luis hiked with me into the trenches, exposing his former hideouts. I even found a “guerrilla café”! The area, though still filled with FMLN supporters, is no longer dangerous as the FMLN is now a civilized, un-armed, official political party.
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